the epic European country that actually wants more tourists

As my time in Nuuk drew to a close, I wasn’t optimistic that the 36-seater propeller plane to Iceland for my onward transport to London would take off. Nuuk’s coastal location makes its weather far less settled than in Kangerlussuaq – so it remains to be seen whether the elements might throw a spanner in the works of the country’s lofty tourism expansion plans. 

Against the odds, my flight did depart, and, as the plane cleared the clouds, my parting gift was the green glow of the aurora along the horizon. Travelling in Greenland is about giving yourself up to the whims of nature; if you’re willing to accept that the country’s unpredictability is an enormous part of its charm, then you certainly won’t be disappointed. 

Essentials

Steph Dyson travelled as a guest of Regent Holidays (01174 534 356; regent-holidays.co.uk), which has the new six-night “Greenland’s Ice Cap and Capital Break” from £3,560 per person, including flights, accommodation, transfers and excursions.

How to explore by cruise 

Cruise ships have historically been the most common way to visit Greenland and are convenient for exploring otherwise areas, such as Greenland’s wild, uninhabited east coast. Cruises also call at historic Norse settlements along the southwestern coast, before docking at Nuuk and, finally, Kangerlussuaq or Ilulissat. 

Adventure Canada (adventurecanada.com) has been sailing to Greenland since 1991 and specialises in small-ship expedition cruises, with Greenlanders employed on their expedition team to provide authentic insight into the islanders’ way of life. Their 13-day “Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings” cruise costs from £4,195 per person, including all meals and excursions.